There is an incident that happened the first day we were in the Azores that will stay with me for some time. We were at Ferraria, in the West of Sao Miguel Island. Ferraria is a beautiful place, known for its thermal pool. The shore is all volcanic cliff, very ragged and dramatic, and the ocean gets quite fierce there. The thermal pool is actually a rocky cove in the ocean, where a natural hot spring comes out from the cliffs and mixes in with ocean water. Bathing in this cove can be dangerous, depending on ocean conditions. On the day we were there, the waters were very rough, and the waves would come from the ocean into the cove and smash against the cliffs violently. Also, the current was very strong, so that if you were in the water, you really needed to hold on to the ropes installed there for that purpose, if you didn't want to be smashed against the rock or pulled out into the ocean.
When we got to the thermal pool, there were a few people standing around, and nobody in the water. But we noticed that one old man was trying to get in. He was slowly shuffling towards the ladder installed at the edge of the cove so you could get in the water.He was having a hard time walking. He looked very unsteady, as if he would trip and fall down at any moment. Several people were watching him, and eventually one guy went to help him. Ed also went to help him. Everyone else who was watching was shaking their heads or yelling at him not to go in.
The waves came into the cove hard, one after another, smashing against the cliffs, spraying high up in the air in a spectacular way. The noise was such that you had to scream to be heard.
Eventually, the old man reached the ladder and started to go down into the water. When he finally got in, and let go of the ladder, he was transformed. It was obvious that he was a very good swimmer and at ease in water. He no longer seemed frail and weak. Everyone was still yelling at him to stop but instead he just swam out.
For a moment, part of me wanted to tell everyone to stop shouting and let him enjoy this moment. I felt like they were ruining his experience (but fortunately, with the crashing of the waves, I don't think he heard them much), and anyway, if this is how he wants to go, then let him do it. It was very obvious that this experience meant a lot to him. At the same time, my heart was cringing at the thought that if he got into trouble, and someone jumped in after him, it would be very dangerous for that person, trying to deal with how powerful the waves were plus a drowning old man.
But in the end, everything was fine. The old man held up strong in the water the whole time and eventually he came out on his own. Once on land, he started shuffling along again in his slow, shaky way, towards where his family and friends were standing.
Meanwhile, I too felt like I had to feel the power of those waves. Ed and I went in the water. There were ropes installed for holding on to, and I held on to them with all my might, as the waves pulled and pushed me. The current was very strong, and you could feel the hot water coming out of the cliff mixing in with the cold ocean water coming with the waves. It was amazing to feel that power. I wanted to laugh, and I did. I was only in there for a few minutes, but it was enough. I'll never forget it.
When I came out, I walked past the old man who was now slowly putting his clothes on. I smiled at him and asked him how he was. He said great. We talked a bit about being in the water and how it felt to be with that kind of power. He and I connected right away. I told him that I understood why he wanted to go in, and he told me that he comes all the way from Finland to have this experience. His face was lit up talking about it.
I will never forget him, especially the way he looked so frail walking along the cliffs, and how changed he was once he got in the water. I really feel that for him, this was about connecting with something primal, but everyone who was yelling at him to get out didn't understand that. I appreciate their worry at the danger of the situation, and I agree that it would've been bad if something happened, but at the same time, I think he needed to experience that. This probably comes across as very irresponsible of me, but anyway, I am glad for him and I will never forget him, or this place, and the way it felt to be in those waters.
You can see the old man in this picture, crouched down on the rocks, trying to get to the ladder where he could enter the cove. Ed and the other guy are helping him. You can see how intense the waves were.
In this picture the old man is finally in the water, you can barely see his head at the bottom of the ladder, and Ed and the other guy are watching him. You can also see the ropes that are installed so you could hold on.
Peace